Food in Ha Giang (part of Tuyen Quang province since July 2025) is mountain food: shaped by stone, cold winters and the crops that grow on steep land, such as corn, rice, buckwheat and tea.
It is hearty and warming, with slow-cooked stews, corn, smoked meat and strong corn wine. Here are 11 dishes worth trying, and how to eat them safely.
What should you eat in Ha Giang?
Ha Giang’s food comes from many peoples: Hmong, Tay, Dao, Nung and others. On the high plateau, corn replaces rice as the staple; in the valleys, rice and river fish are more common.
Compared with the food of the lowlands, it is heavier and smokier, made to give energy for hard work in a cold climate.
The dishes at a glance
| Ha Giang food at a glance | |
|---|---|
| Staples | Corn on the plateau, rice in the valleys |
| Signature dishes | Thang co, men men, chao au tau, Ha Giang rice rolls |
| Drinks | Corn wine, Shan Tuyet tea |
| Where to eat | Markets, local eateries and family homestays |
11 local foods to try in Ha Giang
1. Thang co (Hmong stew)
Thang co is the best-known dish of the Dong Van plateau. It is a Hmong stew, traditionally of horse meat and offal, cooked for hours in a big pan at the market.
Taste: Rich and strongly spiced, with local herbs and spices such as cardamom. It is not for everyone, but it is part of market day.
- Price: Cheap; prices vary by market and portion.
- Where to try: At the Sunday markets of Dong Van and Meo Vac; see our guide to Ha Giang ethnic markets.
2. Men men (steamed cornmeal)
Men men is the traditional staple of Hmong families on the karst plateau, where rice is hard to grow. Ground corn is steamed, usually twice, until soft and fluffy.
- How to eat it: With soup or stew, never on its own. Spoon it into the broth.
- Price: Cheap, often served as part of a meal.
Simple food tastes best when you know where it comes from. That is why we like to explain each dish to our guests before they taste it.
3. Chao au tau (au tau porridge)
Chao au tau is a famous night porridge of Ha Giang city, made with rice, pork and the root of the au tau plant (Aconitum).
Important: The raw root is poisonous. Cooks prepare it carefully, soaking and cooking it for a long time. Eat it only at well-known places that make it every day, never home-made by strangers.
- Taste: Slightly bitter at first, then rich and warming.
- Price: Cheap.
- Where to try: Evening stalls in Ha Giang city.
4. Ha Giang rice rolls (banh cuon)
Unlike rice rolls in Hanoi, served with a cold dipping sauce, Ha Giang rice rolls are often served with a bowl of hot broth.
- Variation: Many places add an egg inside the roll.
- Price: Cheap; a popular breakfast.
5. Smoked buffalo meat (thit trau gac bep)
Strips of buffalo meat are seasoned with spices and hung above the kitchen fire to dry and smoke, a way of keeping meat through the year in many mountain communities.
- Taste: Smoky, spicy and chewy.
- Price: Expensive compared with other dishes, as it takes a lot of meat; prices vary, and quality differs a lot.
- As a souvenir: A popular thing to take home; see our guide to Ha Giang specialties to buy as souvenirs.
6. Five-coloured sticky rice (xoi ngu sac)
A festive Tay dish of sticky rice coloured with natural plant dyes in several colours.
- Meaning: Made for festivals and important days, and often said to bring good luck.
- Price: Cheap; found at markets, especially around festivals.
7. Corn wine (ruou ngo)
Corn wine is the drink of hospitality in Ha Giang, distilled from local corn. You will be offered it in homestays and at markets.
- Strength: Strong. Drink slowly and in small cups.
- Price: Cheap; quality varies a lot.
Sharing a meal and a small cup of corn wine with your hosts is the heart of a homestay evening. Read our guide to homestays in Ha Giang.
8. Thang den (warm rice-ball dessert)
A comforting winter dessert of small glutinous rice balls, often filled with bean paste, in a warm sweet ginger syrup.
Price: Cheap; look for it on cold evenings in Ha Giang city.
9. Com lam (rice cooked in bamboo)
Sticky rice packed into a bamboo tube and cooked over the fire, then peeled and eaten with sesame salt or grilled meat.
Price: Cheap; sold at markets and roadside stalls.
10. Pho chua (sour noodles)
A cool noodle dish with a sweet-sour sauce, roast pork or duck, peanuts and herbs, popular in the northern mountains.
Price: Cheap; a good lunch on a warm day.
11. Smoked sausage (lap xuong)
Pork sausage seasoned with local spices and smoked over the kitchen fire, another way of keeping meat through the year.
Price: Prices vary; often bought as a gift to take home.
After a heavy meal, many families drink tea. Learn more about the ancient Shan Tuyet tea trees of Tay Con Linh.
Summary table
| Dish | What it is | Where to find it |
|---|---|---|
| Thang co | Hmong stew of horse meat and offal | Sunday markets on the plateau |
| Men men | Steamed ground corn | Hmong homes and markets |
| Chao au tau | Night porridge with au tau root | Well-known stalls in Ha Giang city |
| Banh cuon | Rice rolls with hot broth | Breakfast eateries |
| Smoked buffalo | Meat smoked above the fire | Markets, souvenir shops |
| Xoi ngu sac | Five-coloured sticky rice | Markets, festivals |
| Ruou ngo | Corn wine | Homestays, markets |
| Thang den | Rice balls in warm syrup | Evening stalls in winter |
| Com lam | Rice cooked in bamboo | Markets, roadside |
| Pho chua | Sour noodles | Eateries |
| Lap xuong | Smoked sausage | Markets, souvenir shops |
Eating local supports local families. Choose busy stalls and family homestays, and read more about community-based tourism in Ha Giang.
Eating well and safely
A few simple habits:
- Drink bottled or boiled water
- Choose stews and soups that are served very hot
- Eat au tau porridge only at well-known places that make it every day
- Tell your hosts in advance about allergies or dietary needs
- Accept a cup of corn wine with both hands, and drink slowly
- Carry hand gel for eating with your fingers
Frequently asked questions
Is thang co safe to eat?
Eaten hot from a busy market stall, where it is cooked all morning, it is generally fine. If your stomach is sensitive, try a small bowl first.
Can vegetarians eat well in Ha Giang?
Yes. Five-coloured sticky rice, com lam, men men with vegetable soup, tofu and many vegetable dishes are easy to find. Ask for no meat stock and no fish sauce if you need.
How are Ha Giang rice rolls different from Hanoi’s?
In Hanoi, rice rolls come with a cold dipping sauce. In Ha Giang they are often served with a bowl of hot broth, which is perfect on a cold morning.
Written by Nguyễn Văn Trung, founder of TVPalm. He has led small-group trips across Northeast Vietnam since 2021.
